Mastro’s Steakhouse: Red Meat and More in River North

It doesn’t get much more luxe than a big-ticket steakhouse.

Surrounded by high net-worth individuals (if the prices are any indication), white jacket-clad servers and expensive stemware filled with even pricier Cabernets, Mastro’s Steakhouse certainly fits the bill.

Chicago’s River North has no shortage of good, even great restaurants, but this import from Beverly Hills—where it’s known for a fabulous celebrity clientele—is constantly packed, grossing somewhere in the neighborhood of $15 million yearly. They will serve 500-600 people each weekday night in their enormous, two-story restaurant between the two dining rooms, bar and private dining areas.

But steakhouses are a dime a dozen here in the City of Big Shoulders, Butcher to the World. So why are people flocking to Mastro’s? What sets it apart?

Service plays a key role. The white-jacketed wait staff is on their game, leaving nothing to chance: they know the menu cold, water glasses are constantly filled, and blessedly, there is no plate lottery at the table (i.e., “Who had the filet? How about the salmon?”).

The nightly live music, which (somewhat loudly) ran the gamut from jazz standards to current hits, is another selling point, as is the beautiful interior, replete with tufted black leather banquettes, double-clothed tables and soft, flattering lighting (so soft that it took my eyes a while to adjust, but we all looked so romantic and youthful I didn’t care).

And yes, the food is expensive, (what really good steakhouse isn’t?) but the quality supported it. Take, for example, the Ahi Tartare ($17), a wonderful starter to share.

Mastro's Steakhouse review.

A generous amount of sushi-grade, ruby red tuna is given a Latin spin and an eye-catching presentation with a thick layer of well-seasoned tartare atop ripe avocado mash atop crisped and crushed flour tortillas, all drizzled with a thin chipotle mayonnaise.

Wedges of farm-fresh heirloom tomatoes surrounded a soft and luscious Burrata Cheese ($20) under a shower of olive oil and fine aged balsamic, freshly ground pepper and sprigs of oregano and basil. The house bread basket, jam packed with parmesan crisps and ficelle rolls, stood ready for action. We kept it busy. And though we didn’t have room, beautiful seafood towers loaded with dry ice, lobsters, crab claws and more, made their way across the dining room to other lucky tables.

Salads were the ticket while waiting for the red meat infusion. The house salad ($9/15) was loaded with plump shrimp, hard-boiled egg, juicy tomatoes and iceberg lettuce, all tossed in a Louis-style dressing. Our server thoughtfully suggested a half portion although it wasn’t listed on the menu. A Caesar ($11) was delightfully cold, well dressed and adequate for two to share.

Although there were non-meat options available, including a generous selection of halibut, salmon and the like, we figured, “When in Rome…” and ordered carnivorously. All steaks and chops are brought to the table on searingly hot plates (about 400°F), and you are given ample warning. But… wow. This is beautifully aged, seasoned and prepared flesh. Not all meat is created equal.

A Petite Filet ($39), weighing in at 8 ounces, was juicy and tender even though ordered (and served) medium well. Bone-In Kansas City Strip Steak ($51), was 18 ounces of mouth-watering beefiness. And I highly recommend the Rack of Lamb ($49), 8 chops of lamby glory. If Mary’s lamb was this tasty, she would have eaten it no matter how fleecy it was.

Side dishes are a must, because like most steakhouses, the protein is the only thing on your plate. All portions are sized to share with the table. The Garlic Mashed Potatoes ($10) were pureed and creamy in the French style; sweet sautéed Sugar Snaps ($10) provided a crunchy textural counterpoint. Or opt for the Gorgonzola Mac & Cheese ($11) or perhaps the King Crab-Black Truffle Gnocchi ($16/28) if you’re into gilding the lily (or exploding).

Dessert, if you’re a glutton for punishment, offers many options, but if you have room, you’ll want the Signature Warm Butter Cake ($15), butter seemingly held together with caramelized sugar. There’s plenty to share, and it’s topped with rich vanilla ice cream and fresh fruit. I’m pretty sure I saw it on every table. Or maybe one of the three varieties of chocolate cake? We had the sinful Chocolate Pudding Cake ($11), dark and rich and served with a pitcher of fresh cream AND a side dish of whipped cream. Because don’t you need both, at this point?

Warning: you will need to take a walk after this meal. Possibly all the way to the North Shore. So consider sticking a pair of sneakers in your bag. And wear fancy stretch pants.

4 out of 5 stars (A-)

Mastro’s Steakhouse
520 N. Dearborn St.
Chicago
312-521-5100

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