The James Beard award-winning pair of Paul Kahan and Donnie Madia is a formidable one; their One Off Hospitality Group has managed to crack the code on exactly what makes a restaurant great—and what makes it sizzle.
Their newest effort, Nico Osteria at the Thompson Hotel, follows that blueprint. Compelling design? Yes. Well-curated menu filled with craveable food? Absolutely. Trusted and talented chef hired from within the organization? Chef Erling Wu-Bower, who trained at avec and worked at both Publican and Publican Quality Meats and is producing dazzling, ocean-centric Venetian food here, certainly fits that bill. It’s a winning combination all around.
Enter through the Salone Nico, a welcoming bar area overseen by Head Bartender Matty Eggleston, who worked previously at Perennial Virant and Tenzing Wine & Spirits. He’s come up with a small but effective collection of seasonal cocktails ($12 each), all with a decidedly Italian flavor focus, separated into “Aperitif Cocktails,” Full Strength” and “After Dinner.”
The Nico, his version of a Negroni, swaps in Amaro Braulio for the classic Campari, and Cocchi Americano for sweet vermouth. Sipsmith Gin (a London-dry style) and mineral water complete the beautifully balanced drink. Even more impressive was the Chestnut, composed of roasted chestnut-infused Old Forester bourbon, a touch of chestnut honey and fresh lemon juice. The non-alcoholic choice, freshly squeezed Saffron Lemonade, will refresh you. Nibble on the warm, Parmesan-crusted focaccia studded with green olives and revel in the moment.
The menu, like many in recent memory, is composed of dishes that are easily shared. Whether or not you are interested in sharing them is a call only you can make. I reluctantly parted with glistening, pristinely fresh slices of Striped Jack Crudo ($20), touched with olive oil, lemon vinegar and mint and garnished with thin slices of watermelon radish and Thai bird chile. Likewise the Bigeye Tuna Crudo ($18) drizzled with ice wine vinegar, fennel and crispy breadcrumbs. This place gives top sushi chefs a run for their money, each fish sourced with finesse.
Don’t miss the Fettunta section of the menu. This is not the tired basic bruschetta found on many Italian menus. Fettunta is bread that has been grilled, rubbed with garlic and brushed with olive oil. Here, it comes with a variety of toppings ranging from grilled octopus with olives and pocha beans to stracciatella cheese with Brussels sprouts and hazelnuts. We opted for Swiss Chard ($15) with anchovies, lardo, tesa (Italian bacon) and a poached egg and felt smug. But arrgh! Again with the sharing. What if I don’t want to? I would’ve happily kept this one to myself.
The huge Fritto Misto ($25) is actually a must for the table. It’s an impressive assortment of crispy fried clams, whitefish, artichokes, green beans and lemons intermingled with roasted veggies, all served with a sassy caper aioli.
Pastas also shine, especially the Garganelli ($19) with rock shrimp and arugula pesto brightened smartly with orange and orange zest. It’s a sunny dish that could easily imagine enjoying on the Cipriano Palazzo patio overlooking the Venice canals.
For a real Venetian treat, you might enjoy the Squid Ink Bucatini, but in honor of spring, we went with the Lamb Cappeletti ($17), “little hats” filled with lamb and tossed with baby artichokes, mint breadcrumbs and walnuts in a savory sauce.
There are a number of “by the pound” entrée options on offer, including “Pesce del Mercato” such as Pan-Seared Dover Sole ($59/pound) and Roasted Wild Turbot a Vignole ($42/pound) with English peas and prosciutto. There’s also the Nico Dry-Aged Ribeye ($38/pound) with Calabrian chile butter and sautéed mushrooms. Your server will let you know what sizes are available, and that may well determine if you go it alone or split it with a loved one.
We shared the Salt-Crusted Wild Branzino ($48/pound), which arrived skin on but boneless and topped with sautéed forest mushrooms and zante currants and a brothy, wine-based sauce. This sweet and sour preparation (agrodolce) is classically Venetian, but with a Wu-Bower twist.
From the Piatti section, we tried the Pan-Seared Red Snapper ($35), which swam happily with a few clams in a pool of Meyer lemon-accented sauce, its crispy skin topped with sea bean-pistachio gremolata and breadcrumbs. Molto buono.
The only dish that did not elicit orgasmic sighs was the Slow-Roasted Lamb Shoulder ($29) on a bed of saffron polenta and complemented by eggplant caponata (another sweet and sour flavor element). I could see where they were headed with the dish, but I don’t think it quite reached its destination. The Brussels Sprouts ($7) sautéed with garlic and pancetta nubbins more than compensated.
Nico’s Pastry Chef Amanda Rockman is a whiz with all things sugar, having worked previously at Tru (under the great Gale Gand), Spring, The Bristol and Balena, all known for their innovative dessert programs. There is great strength in her gelati and sorbetti options ($3 per tiny scoop), including pistachio, cardamom sweet cream and 68 percent Nyangbo chocolate gelati and the blood orange and burnt honey sorbetti.
Four Affogatos ($11) are available; All are gelatos topped with liquids that vary from the classic espresso to hot buttered rum and Prosecco. We chose the Chinotto and Fior di Latte, a sweet, creamy gelato studded with salty caramel. The chinotto, an Italian soda made from the Sicialian Chinotto orange, a bitter citrus fruit, proved the perfect foil.
The Dolce section was filled with gems, but the Chocolate Nutella Tart ($11) was truly scrumptious, as all things Nutella tend to be. Crowned with shards of dark chocolate, blood orange sections, toasted hazelnuts and a scoop of blood orange sorbetto, it was pretty much perfetto.
Service throughout was extremely knowledgeable and helpful. Even on a Tuesday night, the restaurant bustled happily, with nary an empty table to be found. Is it worth it to fight the crowds? Decidedly so. Nico Osteria totally lives up to the hype. And even without a reservation, you’ll be happy in Salone Nico. Plus, you never know when a party will cancel and a table will open. It’s more than worth the gamble.
4.5 out of 5 stars (A)
Nico Osteria
1015 N. Rush St.
Chicago
312-994-7100
Photos courtesy of Nico Osteria.
