Smylie Brothers Brewing Co.: Something to Smile About

Meet Mike Smylie, amiable Winnetka native, ex-commodities broker, oldest of five boys, lover of craft beers, brewing and barbecue.

He has rebuilt and repurposed the old Oak Street Market/Social Security Office space in downtown Evanston, and along with Head Brewer Brad Pulver and Executive Chef Grant Carey, opened Smylie Brothers Brewing Co., an enormous bar/restaurant/brewery that has been packed since the moment it opened. Apparently there are quite a few hungry and thirsty people in Evanston.

It’s All About the Brew 

First and foremost, let’s talk beer. The flight, six 5-ounce pours, will provide you a happy journey through the Smylie beers. The Farmhouse Ale, dry, light and a little spicy, was a favorite, as was the Cali Common, a toasty malt with a little bit of fruit. The seasonal Purple Line was a bit overwrought, with hibiscus, blueberry and blackberry flavors all fighting for attention. It was a little like a lambic, and the color was gorgeous, although a little disconcerting in a beer.

Pretzel Me This 

dining-Smylie-Brothers-pretzelOn to the food, which was much better than I expected. Not surprising for a brewery, many dishes feature Smylie beer among the ingredients. Don’t miss the big Pale Ale Pretzel ($6), served warm with a Gouda and Farmhouse Ale fondue and house-made beer mustard.

The Potato & Green Garlic Soup ($6) was a solid starter, not overly thick and accented with a tarragon-pistachio pesto. Likewise, salads like the Brewhouse ($7), a fresh mix of greens, roasted beets, shaved raw candy-striped beets and spent-grain rye croutons, made in house, are a clean option to prepare you for the onslaught of barbecue flavor headed your way.

Neopolitan-Style Pies

Pizzas here are Neopolitan-style and fired in a wood-burning oven. The crust is made from a Belgian Farmhouse brewer’s yeast dough, and it has a great blistery look with the perfect amount of chew. Toppings range from a classic Margherita ($12) or Fennel Sausage ($13) to White Pissaldière ($13, IPA-melted onions, anchovies, olives, thyme and Parmesan) and the hefty Smokehouse ($13, 12-hour pulled smoked brisket, Texas-style mopping sauce and Jack cheese).

We tried a few of the reasonably priced non-barbecue entrees, like the Roasted Amish Chicken ($15), brined in Golden Ale. Loved the juiciness of the bird, but the accompanying side dish of grilled summer squash and black-eyed peas missed the mark. We had better luck with the Seared Rainbow Trout ($16) and the vegetarian brown-rice Risotto ($14), almost more like a porridge, but still damn tasty.

The Company Burger ($15) is a little pricey, but wow—it’s a good one. Twin griddled patties topped with IPA-melted onions, cheddar cheese and “Smylie sauce” on a beautiful brioche bun, served with crispy skin-on fries and house-made pickles. Yum.

BBQ Time

For the full barbecue experience, opt for the Barbecue Flight ($20): 14-hour smoked brisket (a little fatty for my taste), pulled pork and a small slab of ribs. Choose your side, but if you get anything other than the delishy breadcrumb topped Mac & Cheese, I don’t even know what to say other than “get a clue.”

A Pulled Smokehouse Chicken Sandwich ($12) on a brioche bun was simply that; although they brought two different barbecue sauce options to the table, I would’ve preferred that the chicken was sauced in the kitchen to keep it moist and flavorful.

The biggest issue we encountered—on both visits—was slow service, a complaint that I have heard from many. In one case, they removed a dish from our bill without prompting and apologized for the delay. Another night, they sent over a free pretzel while we were waiting and the time dragged on.

The space itself is pretty cool. They blew it out to the rafters; there’s a smaller second-floor balcony that sports a smaller bar and some cozy seating. Downstairs you’ll find a much larger bar, big-screen TVs and lots of table seating. During better weather, you can also grab a seat on the front patio, a great spot for people watching.

All in all, a fun place to grab a brew and a bite, especially on a late summer eve. Fall will bring some updates to the menu, as well as a seasonal Smylie beer or two. You should join the crowd—Evanston restaurants are killing it right now.

3.5 out of 5 stars (B+)

MIBGradingStarDiningReviews2

Smylie Brothers Brewing Co. 
1615 Oak Ave.
Evanston
224-999-7320

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