Treat All Of Your Senses at Edgewater’s Uncommon Ground

There’s so much going on at Uncommon Ground on Devon (the original still stands on North Clark in Wrigleyville) that you have to wonder if they can pull it off.

The beautiful artsy-craftsy bar area, woodsy-feeling main dining area complete with fireplace, live nightly music venue, a commitment to organic and sustainable food products, a rooftop garden (!), and three meals served each day. The good news? They fire on all cylinders.

The organic Rooftop Garden, open for tours during the growing season, provides many of the herbs and veggies for the restaurant’s late spring and summer menus.

We dined on a rainy, cold Monday, but once inside, all cares faded away as the menus unfolded in front of us. A very welcome $5 Martini special (the Lemon-Ginger with housemade infused vodka) and substantial by-the-glass wine offerings (including a charming sparkler from New Mexico, $8) set the tone. Once plied appropriately with alcohol, our solicitous and knowledgeable waiter left us to study the menus.

Chef Brian Millman has come up with a menu that makes you realize immediately that you have to come back, as it would be impossible to order everything that sounds great at one sitting. Not that I wouldn’t want to try, but I think it would be a physical improbability. While tempted by the Korean Chili-Spiced Calamari ($12) that wafted by our table, we agreed on the Prince Edward Island Mussels ($13) with Red Curry Broth and Tomato Concasse, and the Sweet Potato Fries with Goat Cheese Fondue ($7). The mussel broth had us fighting over the crispy, long crostini to sop it up, and the SP Fries? Lord have mercy. I had a naughty dream about them last night. Not joking. That good.

As an in-between veggie infusion, we had the Organic Mixed Green Salad with Dijon Vinaigrette ($6). Simple, yes, but the dressing had just the right amount of bite and some frizzled shallots provided a lovely crunch. One of our group had the Vegetarian Chili ($4/7), a soupier version than the heavy ones we’ve been privy to, which worked well. Could have used a little more kick.

Entrees were a challenge for the afore-mentioned reasons… hard to choose. Perhaps the Pumpkin Ravioli ($17), crowned with a Creamy Sage Brown Butter, Toasted Hazelnuts, and Gorgonzola Cheese? Tempting, but we went with the special Crispy Gunthorp Farm Chicken Breast ($18), served on a bed of creamy, cheesy polenta, with a sauce of bacon, and sautéed mushrooms, garnished with shredded Brussels sprout leaves –perfectly cooked and juicy. The rosy Grilled Arctic Char ($21) came with tender gnocchi, sautéed Brussels sprouts, and a lemon-herb brown butter, which presented a satisfying plate for both the eyes and the soul.

We passed on dessert — heresy, I know, as they sounded fabulous, especially the Seedling Farm Apple Crisp with Salty Peanut Gelato ($7) – but enjoyed the dark and toasty Metropolis coffee; even the decaf was full of flavor. Can’t wait to go back for their award-winning brunch some weekend soon; chances are they’ll see me sooner for lunch or dinner and another order of those SP fries. How could I stay away?

Uncommon Ground
Chicago

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