St. Helena is situated in the charming heart of the Napa Valley, between Yountville and Calistoga, right along Highway 29.
The town is bursting with personality and has a significant local feel, rather than a touristy vibe. Winemaking here dates back to the 1800s, its history echoing through the gables and turrets of the magnificent Rhine House, now home to Beringer Wine.
The wineries in St. Helena today range from powerhouses such as Franciscan and Louis Martini to critically acclaimed small producers including Revana, Corison, Spottswoode, William Cole and Del Dotto. You can stop by the quaint Chamber of Commerce on the way into town for even more info, but we’ve done much of the legwork here for you.
Must Taste
Heading up Highway 29 north of Napa and Yountville, a fabulous first stop for a welcoming tasting is at the Salon at Swanson Vineyards (1217 Manley Lane, 707-754-4018). You’ll start with their delightful, refreshing rosé while admiring the beautiful Ira Yeager paintings around you. Next up: the unctuous and velvety Merlot, followed by Face Cabernet Sauvignon. Stop into the whimsical Sip Shoppe to grab a few bottles.
As you just enter town, take an espresso break or squeeze in another tasting at Velo Vino (709 Main St., 707-968-0625), a bike rider’s haven, to taste Clif Family Wines, have a snack or hang out before, during or after a gorgeous ride around the valley. To further explore the range of Clif Family Wines, reserve a space up at the guesthouse for the Rifugio food and wine pairing, served poolside in an unforgettable locale.
Charles Krug, Duckhorn, Flora Springs and Long Meadow Ranch are just a few of the no-appointment-needed winery tasting rooms along the main drag. Be sure to reserve at a few other gems: Far Niente, Peju Province, Grgich Hills Estate and Trinchero. So many options, so little time! Save yourself the navigating and hire George Stone’s Napa Valley Chauffeurs (707-373-0704, napavalleygeorge@gmail.com).
Must Eat
Grab a snack as you roll into St. Helena at the venerable Gott’s Roadside (933 Main St., St. Helena, 707-963-3486). It’s a diner, indeed, but burgers might be ahi tuna, tacos are more likely to be fish than meat, and fries come with a garlic-parsley sprinkle. Soak in the sunshine on a picnic table out back.
Don’t miss the exceptional Northern Italian cuisine with locally sourced ingredients at Cook St. Helena (1310 Main St., 707-963-7088). You’ll be seduced by grilled octopus with micro-greens and a saffron-vanilla aioli, or perhaps the red wine friendly braised shortrib and hand-made cavatelli in a rabbit-porcini sugo. The wine list turns you on to lesser-known labels you won’t find at home.
Trek to the northern edge of Yountville to the no-reservations Ciccio (6770 Washington St., Yountville, 707-945-1000). Featured on the supremely farm-to-table menu: arugula and radish salad; wood-fired artichokes; and mushroom, taleggio and crispy sage grilled pizza. Proprietor Frank Altamura features his family wines—or try other local wines at retail pricing (no mark-ups!).
Chicago native Andy Florsheim left town to open Goose & Gander (1245 Spring St., St. Helena, 707-967-8779). Chef Kelly McCown has a knack for rustic American cuisine; a table on the lush patio makes the experience top-notch. The fare is seasonally driven and the wines mostly local and unique, like the 2009 Parador Tempranillo.
Must Do and See
Explore the Friday Farmers’ Market behind the bocce courts in the heart of town. The local produce is downright intoxicating.
Housed in the pre-prohibition Christian Brothers winery, the Culinary Institute of America’s gorgeous stone structure is perched just past the downtown area. There’s an amazing tasting bar and an acclaimed onsite eatery with outdoor seating and a view.
Stroll down the two historic blocks of Main Street and shop to your heart’s content. There are dozens of adorable small shops ranging from St. Helena Olive Oil and Woodhouse Chocolate to my absolute favorite, Model Bakery. Stop into 750 Wines where Chicago natives Monica and David Stevens run a unique shop with a purposefully curated gallery of small producers and hard-to-find wine gems to ship home.
Must Stay
For the true lap of luxury, there’s Meadowood Napa Valley (900 Meadowood Lane, 707-531-4788). You’ll find beautifully maintained grounds, world-class spa and award-winning Dining Room—plus free car service into town.
The quaint Wine Country Inn (1152 Lodi Lane, 707-963-7077) is as charming as it is convenient; it’s in close proximity to some of the Napa Valley’s finest wineries. Complimentary breakfast and a wine hour are included on these gorgeous organically farmed grounds. Spa treatments take advantage of the natural volcanic hot springs with the Valley Dew body scrub and massage.
Built in 1881, the elegant European boutique Hotel St. Helena (1309 Main St, 707-963-4388) is steeped in Victorian history. It’s in the heart of town and is extremely reasonably priced, but lacks the amenities of the other resorts and spas.
Top right photo: Clif Family Winery. All photos courtesy of each business.
