When Mies van der Rohe designed the iconic IBM Building, he couldn’t have envisioned that 40 years later, 12 floors would be given over to the Langham, a luxury hotel chain with British origins.
Nestled on the second floor of this stunning import is Travelle, a gorgeous new restaurant with inspired, inventive Mediterranean cuisine. Be sure to check out the incredible Czech glass installation hanging in the lobby on your way in.
The design of the restaurant, befitting the landmark building, is modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides, a spacious wraparound bar/lounge area, and seating that looks straight out of the Knoll catalogue. Neutral colors, light woods and metallics harmonize to create a look of which Mies himself would approve.
Superstar Team
Travelle has a pedigreed team, with Chef Tim Graham (TRU, Paris Club) and award-winning Pastry Chef Scott Green in the gleaming, glass-encased kitchen, and General Manager Serge Krieger (TRU, L2O) and young-phenom sommelier Richard Hanauer (also TRU, L2O) smoothly overseeing the dining room. I don’t often mention the front-of-the-house management in a review, but the service here, from greeting to exit, is truly excellent and deserves singling out.
The breadth of wine, beer and liquor on offer is mind-boggling, and I was gratified to see on my last visit that the prices have come down. They’ve clearly made the choice to now price for the restaurant as opposed to a hotel bar. Yes, there are 5-star bottles of French Bordeaux in the thousands, but there are also some lovely choices in the $40-60 range, too. And special cocktails are in the mid-teens rather than the high teens, as they were on our first outing.
The menu runs through all of the Mediterranean countries—Italy, Turkey, Morocco, Southern France, Spain, Greece—as you read through it. Appetizers (or Diminutive Introductions, Crudo, Flatbreads, Seafood “Elevations” and “Seacuterie”) are meant for sharing with the table, while “Mains” are geared toward a single diner.
Fly Me Away
You MUST order the Pita Balloon ($6), an aptly named air-filled crispy crust of pita bread, served with Muhammara (an addicitve dip of pureed roasted red peppers, walnuts and pomegranate molasses). It’s a better calorie choice than the gratis tableside bread service, because the bread seems to dry out when it’s sliced ahead of time. I don’t get the necessity of emulsifying the lovely olive oil with glycerin; it certainly looks pretty, but I didn’t like the texture. I prefer the fresh soft butter, or straight EVOO.
In keeping with the focus on the beautiful blue sea, there is a Seafood Elevation ($135) on offer, filled with sparkling fresh oysters, clams, prawns, langoustines and lobsters. You could also opt for Caviar Service ($50-300) if you’re especially flush, or a Seacuterie platter ($23/$49), Graham’s “unique take on traditional charcuterie,” inspired by the bounty of the ocean.
We were perfectly happy sharing the “Nicoise” Ahi Tuna ($17), cut into a thin, ruby-red rectangle, drizzled with olive oil and scattered with cherry tomatoes, sliced olives, potatoes and tiny haricots verts. Likewise, we enjoyed the refreshing Arugula, Parmesan, Preserved Lemon salad ($13), which also featured thin slices of black and watermelon radishes.
I can’t wait to go back for the Chickpea Panisse ($8) with spicy harissa aioli, fried sticks of goodness made from a batter of chickpea flour and water, prepared much like polenta. Crispy on the outside, melting within. That dish is all that is right with the world. I am not exaggerating.
A Way with Chicken
This kitchen has a way with chicken, including the flaming Saganaki Wings ($13), which are served with a tangy sauce seemingly composed of the above-mentioned harissa aioli and Greek yogurt. Whatever. It works. And why, you may ask, am I recommending a pedestrian dish like the Grilled Half Chicken ($22)? First off, the chicken is brined for 24 hours before cooking, and then it’s basted with piri-piri sauce and perfectly cooked—juicy and tender inside with a crispy skin. To further gild the lily, it’s served with Labneh potatoes (creamy mashed potatoes mixed with yogurt cheese). You WANT this chicken.
Short-Rib Ravioli ($21) topped with Moroccan gremolata was another winner, and the pasta is made in house. Didn’t love the unbilled bagna cauda sauce on the 8-oz. Hanger Steak Frites ($27), mostly because I wasn’t expecting the anchovies. We thought at first that the steak had been cooked on a fish grill. But it was whisked away and quickly replaced when we expressed distress.
Fish entrees like the Grilled Salmon with Garlic Clam Fregola ($21) and the Red Snapper en Papillote ($26) didn’t really stand out, although they were nicely prepared. But if they have the Branzino for two ($55), grab it. The skin is lightly crisped with cornmeal and the fish is so moist and sweet. The accompanying salad of cucumbers and heirloom tomatoes dressed simply with lemon and olive oil was a lovely foil.
Sweet Endings
Desserts ($9) were incredibly flavorful. The Verrine of Dark Chocolate with Brownie Biscuit and Salted Caramel is a must order; likewise the Lime Panna Cotta with Sour Cherries and Ginger Tuile.
The few quibbles I have are largely an issue of form over function. The silverware is gorgeous but somewhat irritating—it won’t perch on the plate and doesn’t sit comfortably in larger hands. The 3-Course Express Lunch ($29) bento box comes all at once, from soup to dessert, and it’s unwieldy. Plus the fact that I’m not a fan of mixing fish and chocolate basically on the same plate!
But in general, this is a dazzling venue with superior service, a place where you could comfortably bring a business partner…or a romantic one.
4 out of 5 stars (A-)
Travelle
The Langham
330 N. Wabash Ave.
Chicago
312-923-7705
