South Evanston is so hot right now.
I can honestly say I never thought I would type those words—but there it is. Evanston in general has seen a slew of openings in the last year, including La Macchina, Lao Sze Chuan, Olive Mediterranean Grill, Farmhouse, Hewn Bakery, Naf Naf Grill and Hoosier Mama Pie Shop, but Howard Street, our border with the big city, is really coming into its own.
First, there was the throwback speakeasy, Ward Eight; add to that the Peckish Pig, which refers to itself as a “laid-back brewpub with gastropub chow.” That pretty much hits the nail on the head.
Much like Union Pizzeria a little further north, the Peckish Pig has nailed the feeling of urban cool without pretense, with similar mismatched comfy furniture in the window for bar seating and street watching. The overall vibe is rustic (wood beams, bar and tables) and a little funky (metal furniture, groovy lighting, bright blue Mason jars for glassware).
Photo courtesy of Peckish Pig
Owners Jamie and Debbie Evans opened The Celtic Knot in downtown Evanston years ago; they sold it, but still own Taste Food & Wine in Rogers Park, just a hop, skip and a jump from The Pig. Here, Jamie works the floor while Debbie runs the kitchen, putting out a varied menu of upscale and inventive bar food to match the terrific collection of craft beers on tap and in the bottle, including their own India’s Panic Attack (IPA) and nearby Temperance Beer’s Restless Years. Not to fear, there is a reasonable selection of well-priced wines by the glass or bottle, as well as a full bar (in every sense of the word).
The menu is presided over by a silhouette of the peckish pig himself, armed with fork and knife like a cannibal, and divided into sections: The Plank, The Bowl, Meat, Poultry, Seafood, Vegetarian, On Bread, Sides and Desserts. That makes it easy to troll through the menu and hit something from every food group; much of this food is made for sharing, and prices are reasonable, so don’t worry too much about over ordering.
You can’t go wrong with the Duck Confit Mac & Cheese, served with a Sunny-Side Up Egg ($8/$12). The mac is rich with Irish Cheddar and other cheeses, and the duck falls off the bone, although I don’t think the egg added much to the dish. I must say that I was surprised to see an actual duck leg on top of the mac and cheese; they would have been better served shredding the duck and combining it with the dish.
The Flatbread with Arugula, Serrano Ham, Goat Cheese and Red Onion with a Fig Jam Glaze ($10) was well balanced; the crust held up well to the myriad toppings, and the flavors pulled together nicely. The Kimchi Potato Cakes with Plum Sauce ($7) tasted more like slightly spicy mashed potatoes and lacked a real crust, which would’ve provided the right textural contrast. And sadly, I found the Beer Big Mussels ($7/$10), cooked in beer with onions and bacon, to be too bitter tasting.
But the Lamb Burger with Cumin Fries ($13)—now that was a straight home run. The moist and juicy lamb was topped with goat cheese, arugula and a mango and lime mayo and the pretzel bun was perfect. The fries were exceptional, crispy and seasoned liberally with ground cumin, salt and pepper. They weren’t skinny fries, but not quite steak fries, either. They disappeared too quickly.
We also enjoyed the Spinach Salad with Red Onion, White Beans, Pancetta and Creamy Dijon Dressing ($7/$10), a big bowl of tasty greenness with just the right amount of dressing. The Selection of Local & European Cheeses & Meats ($14/$18) was as pretty a cheese board as I’ve seen in a restaurant, with some lovely cheeses, garnishes and charcuterie, along with grilled baguette slices.
Desserts are all made in house by Debbie (“The English Tart”), and they are definitely calorie worthy. Take for example the Deep-Fried Jam Butty ($7), which will require a minimum of three hours of Zumba to counterbalance. It is, I’m ashamed to say, a deep-fried PB&J, and I loved every bite of it. Happily, our group split it, so I was still able to walk out of the restaurant. Debbie’s Lemon Tart ($7) felt infinitely lighter—chalk it up to the power of citrus.
I’m so thrilled to see the happy bustle of people on Howard Street. It’s a neighborhood that deserves a gathering place, and the Peckish Pig is filling that niche. They are open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday, brunch and lunch on Saturdays and Sundays, and closed Mondays.
3.5 out of 5 stars (B+)
Peckish Pig
623 Howard St.
Evanston
847-491-6778
