Yelpers, you need to relax.
I’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: When you go to a restaurant in the first week after they open, you can’t be surprised that there are glitches. Unless a restaurant has the luxury of a soft open—and even then—there will be service issues. There will be kitchen mishaps. It takes time for a restaurant to hit its stride.
Listen, I get it. When a long-awaited opening (rumored for November 2013, then January 2014, then February, and finally March) ultimately happens, it’s tempting to be the first in to pass judgment. Compound that with the presence of a Chicago celebrity chef/restaurateur (Chinatown’s legendary Tony Hu) and Yelping about it can be irresistible.
So here’s the scoop: There are kinks to work out—the kitchen can be slow, the delivery service doesn’t quite have its act together—but the bottom line is, yum. This is real Sichuan food, replete with loads of chili oil, hot chili peppers and tongue-numbing Sichuan pepper. While not for the faint of heart, spice-lovers will be justly rewarded.
This is not your average Chinese restaurant. There are things on the menu here that you just don’t see elsewhere (unless you are Chinese and privy to the special menu): Spicy Beef Tendon, Pork Elbow Shanghai Style, Tofu with Salty Duck Egg, and more. But the menu is a deep one, with plenty of choice for vegetarians and vegans, as well as carnivores and pescatarians. And if you aren’t a spice-lover, they are happy to modify most dishes to your taste. But be warned: When they say spice, they really, really mean it.
The restaurant isn’t large (seating maybe 60 people), but it is cozy and fun. Bamboo is the theme; the walls feature huge portraits of pandas, and a green bamboo wall runs the back of the restaurant. Huge wire baskets encircle the light fixtures, and the curved, light wood tables are complemented with plushly padded moss-green chairs. There is a small bar on the south wall of the space; wine, beer and full bar are available.
Now to the food. Recommended appetizers include the meaty Pork Pot Stickers (six for $5.45); a tangle of cool and tangy Cold Noodle Salad with Sesame Sauce ($5.95) and the soupy Mandarin-Style Dumplings ($5.45). Take advantage of the hot chili oil provided if you crave a little more bite. Each table also receives a complimentary dish of cold spicy cabbage.
The Chef’s Recommendation corner of the menu is a good place to start when choosing entrees. The Mapo Tofu ($10.45) was a winner; tons of silky cubes of tofu swimming in a vinegary, thickened broth that showcases what the numbing Sichuan peppercorn can do.
Lamb with Pure Cumin Powder ($15.45) actually featured a ton of cumin seeds, shaved and crispy lamb meat, bell peppers, onions and chilies. I was prepared to dislike it, but it was actually delicious. Lots of cumin, but it somehow didn’t overwhelm the dish. Our server stood over us anxiously as we tried the dish and broke into a huge smile when he saw how much we enjoyed it. “That’s my favorite dish on the menu,” he told us.
Another do not miss: the glistening Sole Fish Fillets in Chili-Bean Sauce ($14.45). Amazing. And their Basil Chicken ($12.45) is my new favorite preparation of this dish. Do note that the portions are quite generous and meant to be passed around the table. Plan on bringing some leftovers home so you can try a number of dishes.
Vegetables shine here. We loved both the Szechuan String Beans ($10.45), which is not a vegetarian preparation as is, and the Garlic Peapod Leaves ($12.45), another dish you rarely see on the North Shore. You can find tofu 10 different ways, Scallion Pancakes, and tons of other veggie options.
Leave room for the funky but tasty Rice Pudding ($5.50), unlike any rice pudding I’ve ever had. This is glutinous rice, seared in a pan, filled with red bean paste and dotted with dried fruit. It’s an intriguing, multi-layered dish—a little sweet, a little smoky, and a lot intriguing.
Service on our visits ranged from well-intentioned to excellent; again, it’s early times for Lao Sze Chuan. But if the constant infusion of Northwestern students and Evanstonians into this storefront is any indication, they’ll be around for a good long while.
4 out of 5 stars (A-)
Lao Sze Chuan
1633 Orrington Ave.
Evanston
847-868-8989
