There aren’t a lot of options for South American food in the north suburbs, so the emergence of Longitud315 in Highwood is a positive development.
There’s a lot that’s right here, and it’s clear that Chef Tony Castillo knows his way around the flavors of Brazil, Argentina, Peru and Venezuela. The restaurant, decorated in earth tones, is warm and inviting, lit softly throughout most of the restaurant (though it is quite bright toward the back, where there’s a large window into the kitchen). The noise level was mercifully low, a real plus.
It’s Not Sangria!
They have a decent (though smallish) wine list featuring plenty of Argentinean Malbecs, craft beers, and a nice selection of bottled teas and sodas. They do not serve any liquor, and the sangria-like concoctions (white or red wine mixed with fruit juices and purees) suffer because of it. They bring to mind the kosher Manischevitz Concord wine served at Passover circa 1974, and are best avoided–unless, of course, you dig that sort of thing. I suggest that you stick with the Malbec.
While you peruse the menu, bowls of freshly fried plantain chips and chimichurri (an herbaceous blend of cilantro, parsley, garlic, vinegar and oil) are brought to the table. They are super-tasty and will instantly disappear.
Vegetarian Appetizers a Hit
Small plates are easily shared, so order a few for the table. The Tostones with Black Beans and Fire-Roasted Corn Relish ($7.95) is an excellent vegetarian option. Plantain rounds are smashed and fried into crispy discs; spoon the bean and corn relish on top and enjoy.
We also really liked the Fire-Roasted Eggplant Montaditos ($10.95), four grilled crostini topped with an herby goat cheese, chopped marinated eggplant, and smoky tomatoes. It is another substantive vegetarian choice.
One of my favorite South American dishes is the arepa, a moist and cheesy corn cake. Here, the Arepas Dona Ynes (4 for $8.95) were topped with marinated shredded pork, fresh avocado and red pepper-cream sauce, and though the arepas themselves were terrific, I was not a fan of the lukewarm pork. I would have preferred just the avocadoes and sauce as an accompaniment.
Three ceviches are offered ($10.95 for one, $29.95 for all three), but the House Ceviche with Mahi Mahi and Mango was both bland and sweet, the fish relegated to a back seat. I’d take a pass on that.
Red Meat!
Meat eaters will rejoice. The Angeles y Diablos ($30.95), a trio of grilled organic New Zealand lamb chops paired with three spicy langostinos, were a succulent choice. Chef Tony’s signature dish, Churrascos ($25.95), a mixed grill of skirt steak, chicken breast and Brazilian sausage served with coconut rice, black beans, yucca, plantains and that yummy chimichurri, is perfect for your carnivore.
In the mood for fish? My guest ordered the Sea Bass Sarandeado ($32.95), the filet steamed in a banana leaf with vegetables, herbs and the “Chef’s Special Sauce,” which came with Caribbean coconut rice and grilled asparagus. It looked and smelled delicious, but unfortunately, it was Chilean sea bass, which isn’t really sea bass at all, and not what she thought she had ordered. The chef was quite gracious and offered to quickly switch it out for the Trucha Primavera ($24.95), a butterflied and grilled rainbow trout, seasoned with aji Amarillo, a traditional Peruvian condiment made from the yellow chile pepper. It was delicious and beautifully seasoned.
Sweet Endings
Desserts are made in house, with the exception of the Flourless Chocolate Cake, brought in from the nearby Bent Fork Bakery. The Colombian-Style Flan ($7.95), enriched with sweetened condensed milk, was served in a wedge atop a criss-cross of caramel sauce and dolloped with whipped cream. We also enjoyed the Choco-Coco-Late ($10.95), a big slab of deep, dense chocolate cake with a scoop of creamy coconut ice cream at the ready. So fattening. I so didn’t care.
Service was lackluster, though well meaning, throughout dinner. No needs were anticipated; we had to flag down a server at every turn (to order more wine, to fill the water glasses, to order entrees, to get the check). Even so, they could not have been nicer—just more efficient.
3 out of 5 stars (B)
Longitud315
315 Waukegan Ave.
Highwood
847-926-7495
