This being the third time I have reviewed a restaurant in this particular space, I arrived with some trepidation.
But from the moment I walked in the door and saw that they had finally exposed the huge windows overlooking Deerfield Road and let some light in the restaurant—literally opening it up to the community around it—I had a feeling that this one was a keeper.
Let There Be Light
Light changes the mood in a restaurant. With the two previous tenants (Red Star Tavern and Townhouse, corporate joints from the same parent company), that feeling was too dark, too closed in. At Bobby’s Deerfield (did anyone else catch that play on words from the 70s Al Pacino film?), owners Bobby and Augie Arifi of Glenview’s popular Café Lucci are going a different route. Done up in black, white, red and shades of gray, the space projects a cool, comfortable elegance that is still playful.
Clearly people agree, because I saw more people dining here for lunch than on my other review visits combined. And the food, I think, warrants it. They’ve combined Italian favorites with upscale, Mediterranean takes on old standbys. So whether you’re here for a business meal, a friendly outing or a birthday lunch, they’re serving what you want to eat.
Sweet and Spicy!
And if you start your meal with the Sweet and Spicy Calamari ($10), you’ll be happy. The lightly battered squid is flash fried and tossed with a drizzle of balsamic syrup and finely minced giardinera. It’s an unexpected but welcome pairing, with just the right amount of heat and sweet; and although the dish had cooled by the time it got to the table, the squid was perfectly tender.
We were disappointed by the Salmon Pastrami ($9), vaunted as a signature dish. The problem was not the house-cured fish, silky and delicious, but the potato pancake beneath, which was impossibly oily and mushy. If they get the latke right, it will be a killer dish.
The Bobby’s Salad ($11) was a pleasant mix of tastes and textures, including chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, roasted peppers, broccoli, asparagus, hearts of palm, chickpeas and bleu cheese, all tossed with mixed greens and a light balsamic vinaigrette. You can add Grilled Chicken ($5) or Cold Shrimp ($3 per piece) to any salad to make it more of a meal.
You won’t need to add a thing to Bobby’s Burger ($12), ten ounces of ground brisket and short rib beef topped with Gouda cheese and fixings, served on a custom Gonnella bun with a side of well-seasoned, skin-on fries. Could they have been crisper? Yes, but they were still tasty.
Keep Abreast of It
Those fries also accompany Augie’s Cackler ($11), one of the best chicken sandwiches I’ve had in recent months. Served on a whole-grain Kaiser roll, the super moist, marinated breast is layered with sprightly arugula, feta cheese and a savory black olive/caper/sun-dried tomato tapenade. Delish!
Pasta shines here, unsurprisingly. We loved the special Rigatoni Marla ($12) with tomato-vodka sauce and crumbled Italian sausage. The pasta was perfectly al dente, and the portion was more than ample to split; it was super rich but so yummy.
Apparently they have a way with boneless chicken breasts here—the Chicken Caprese ($12 at lunch), sautéed with white wine and plum tomatoes, is topped with melted, fresh mozzarella and basil, and served with a side of sautéed Italian veggies. Again, the bird was fork tender and beautifully seasoned.
Don’t Miss…
For dessert, you can skip the so-so Chocolate Cake ($6), which was a little too sweet and not deep, dark chocolatey enough for us. Instead, opt for the outstanding Banana Coconut Cake ($6), 4 layers of moist banana cake layered with coconut cream pie filling, frosted with vanilla buttercream and topped with toasted coconut. Lord have mercy! Still dreaming about that one.
Bobby’s is open for lunch Monday through Friday, and for dinner nightly. While our service left a little to be desired (appetizers weren’t hot, and our server tried to divvy them up for us without asking first; we had to ask for drinks—and later the check—twice), I think it had nothing to do with the kitchen. And Bobby is a constant presence in the dining room, helping servers, checking on tables and keeping things happy, so I’m not worried.
And now that Deerfield can actually see into the restaurant, I have a feeling that this place is going to be embraced. Tasty food, convivial host, comfortable and stylish interior… I’d say the third time’s the charm.
3.5 out of 5 stars (B+)
Bobby’s Deerfield
695 Deerfield Rd.
Deerfield
847-607-9104
Photos by Nathaniel Perry
