Don’t get me wrong. I’m a big fan of The Noodle, a Wilmette favorite of longstanding.
And when they opened The Noodle Small Plates & Market next door, I assumed that it was simply an expansion of the perpetually crowded original space with Noodle products for take home purposes. But in reality, it’s much more.
The new place is really a wine bar that serves terrific food, with a completely different menu than the parent restaurant. Chef Molly McGrath cut her teeth in the biz as a server at The Noodle years ago. Since, she has worked at many restaurants, most recently as a consultant in San Francisco. Owner Rob Garrison was smart to bring her back home.
The Menu Expands
The lunch menu is limited, with three salads, four skewers, four flatbreads and a daily soup, but those choices are quality. At dinner, the selection expands with the addition of “snacks,” “spreads” and “crispy” offerings, as well as build your own meat and cheese platters. Prices are incredibly reasonable, especially given the value for your money.
The room is long and thin (it’s the old Olive Oil space), with picture windows looking out onto the street. Red provides a pop of color with the black tables and chairs; a stand up wine bar along the window is perfect for those grabbing a glass while waiting for a table to open up next door. The wine list is well priced; the flights ($11 and $12) include “Oaked Whites” and “Unique Reds,” with three wines poured in each. There are also a few craft beers ($4-7) as well as dessert wine and port.
Holy Moly, Those Brussels Sprouts!
If you’re lucky enough to get one of the tables, you can really go to town on the food. Yes, these are “small plates,” but eminently shareable. If you eat nothing else, you must order the outstanding Brussels sprouts chips with bacon ($5), perfectly crisped individual leaves served in a pile with nubbins of bacon and a squeeze of lemon. We are still talking about that one.
The Mini Risotto Cakes ($6) came five to an order with a ramekin of spicy aioli for dipping. I am wondering what alchemy occurs in McGrath’s fryer that allows the risotto to remain creamy inside while perfectly crunchy on the outside. She tells me that the secret is cleaning out the fryer every day (believe it or not, that is not true at every restaurant), but it’s also about the correct temperature and not crowding the basket.
The Blue Cheese spread ($7.50) comes in a small Mason jar, all creamy and topped with a layer of apple gelee, accompanied by crispy baguette toasts. It was lovely with the flight of Robust Reds. You can also opt for one of the Flatbreads (all $9), oblong shaped and thin of crust. Ours was laden with fennel sausage and slightly bitter broccoli rabe, a nice foil for the cheese and red onion (which I would prefer to be sautéed first before baking).
Big Greens
Salads, served in big white bowls, are generous. The Italian Chopped with Crispy Chickpeas ($7) could use a little more chopping—the red onion and salami came in clumps atop the greens—and the vinaigrette needed a punch. But the Roasted Carrots with Arugula and Goat Cheese ($7) was a huge hit at our table, especially with the unbilled glazed walnuts, a textural highlight.
We tried two of the four skewers on offer; each came two to a serving with a sauce for dipping. The Pepper-Crusted Steak and Mushroom ($8.50) with roasted garlic sauce was tender and flavorful, but needs a heavier hand with the pepper. The Chicken and Artichoke ($7.50) skewers, served with lemon-Parmesan sauce, were straight-up delish. Again, easily splittable.
Don’t Miss the Doughnuts
Save room (don’t I always?) for the Made-to-Order Doughnuts ($6) with salted caramel dip. Question: is it even possible to get caramel without salt these days? No matter. It works here. The house-made Cookie Platter ($5) and Vanilla Panna Cotta with Red Wine Cherries ($5) are also solid choices. Service was a little haphazard—we had to ask a number of times for the check, and the wine flights seemed to take a long time to get together—but very friendly.
And if you’re too full to cook lunch or dinner the next day, you can always grab lasagna for two, garlic bread, Caesar salad dressing and a jar of pesto-ricotta spread to take home.
4 out of 5 stars (A-)
The Noodle Small Plates & Market
1156 Central Ave.
Wilmette
847-251-1133
