Walking into Nick’s Neighborhood Bar and Grill in downtown Wilmette is a bit of an out-of-body experience.
Though it’s in CJ Arthur’s old space, it’s been totally renovated and revitalized. Gone is the dark and dingy room, the smell of old fry oil, and the sticky floor. Instead, there is light, open space, plenty of fresh paint and gleaming wood, modern fixtures, three huge flat-screen TVs, and most noticeably, people—lots of people.
Sure, everyone is there to check out the new space and the crowd-pleasing menu, put together by young chef Derek Dwyer. But they are coming back for a second and third time because the locally sourced food is tasty and the vibe is good.
Tim Lenon, owner of nearby Fuel, is one of the owners, along with nine other Wilmette families. It’s no surprise that the place has such a friendly, local feel. And it seems like everyone here knows everyone else. Could it be Wilmette’s answer to Cheers?
The Early Bird
My advice is to arrive early for a table (they open at 4:30 every day for dinner). They only take reservations for larger parties, and it fills up fast. But no worries, because the bar is a pleasant place to wait, and there’s a thoughtfully selected, extensive craft-beer list, as well as a selection of specialty cocktails ($10 each) and wines by the glass.
Service can be a bit hit or miss, but it’s a young staff and they’re learning. And while there’s nothing earth shatteringly creative on the menu, it’s all solidly prepared. Try the Crab Cakes ($12), two plump, pan-seared cakes, loaded with jumbo crab (and not much filler), drizzled with a spicy remoulade and served with mixed greens.
Tasty Apps
A generous bowl of PEI Mussels ($10) could have been hotter, but the flavor of the garlic, herbs and beer resounded, with crostini there for ripping and dipping. The Mac ‘n’ Cheese du Jour ($8), which featured bacon on one visit, lacked a punchy cheese flavor, but still disappeared.
We were impressed with the Arugula Salad ($8), the peppery young leaves tossed with roasted wild mushrooms, goat cheese and not-too-sweet honey-mustard vinaigrette, topped with delightfully crispy onion shards.
The ever-present Kale Caesar ($8) disappointed; it was mixed with romaine lettuce and tossed in a lackluster Caesar dressing that begged for more seasoning. I wish they had gone all kale…better to fully commit to the concept.
Sandwiches are Winners
Sandwiches proved to be strong contenders on the menu. The Grilled Chicken Club ($10), with a juicy grilled and marinated breast, avocado, provolone cheese, house-made bacon, tomato, arugula and pesto served on toasted ciabatta, was a happy mouthful.
And the 1/2-pound Burger ($12)? It may well be Wilmette’s best, a blend of ground ribeye and house dry-aged chuck, cooked to a turn and topped with your choice of cheese, bacon, grilled onions, mushrooms, avocado and pickles, all on your choice of a brioche or pretzel bun. Sandwiches come with your choice of hand-cut fries (decent), veggie chips (same) or a side salad.
Entrée portions were generous, but not overwhelming. We enjoyed the pan-seared Salmon ($18), glazed with a touch of herb-mustard and served atop a creamy wild mushroom and leek risotto dotted with blistered cherry tomatoes. A moist Halibut filet ($24), topped with a caper beurre blanc and microgreens, came on a bed of sautéed vegetables.
While we enjoyed the Dry-Aged NY Strip ($23), it wasn’t what we had ordered (which was actually the Ribeye). Either the kitchen misfired or the server grabbed someone else’s steak. We were short on time so we didn’t bother to correct the mistake.
Don’t Skip Dessert!
Dessert more than made up for the error. The Brownie a la Mode ($6) is a fine specimen of the genre, the warm, triple-chocolate beauty topped with an enormous scoop of Homer’s Mint Chocolate Chip ice cream. A nutella topping is promised, but was non-existent. We didn’t miss it.
And don’t miss the uber-moist Red Velvet Cake ($6), made in house, iced with real cream cheese frosting and drizzled with strawberry sauce. Yum.
Wilmette Avenue is quickly becoming a dining destination on the North Shore scene, and Nick’s is a welcome addition.
3.5 out of 5 stars (B+)
Nick’s Neighborhood Bar & Grill
1168 Wilmette Ave.
Wilmette
847-251-3262
